We Visited Two Sicilian Hill Towns. Only One Felt Alive

Two hilltop towns in the Palermo province, both small, both remote, and they couldn’t feel more different. One felt stuck in time, sitting in the shadow of Rocca Busambra near Corleone, a place with a long and complicated history. The other has a population of 1,500 and is home to one of Italy’s most important astronomy centers. We went looking for why.